PFW

I’m in complete denial about the A/W fashion season being over. The runway fashion, the street style; I’ve been watching with awe for the last four weeks as the best Autumn/Winter collections have been showcased in front of our eyes. The last port of call was Paris – the city of love – and the fashion capital made us fall in love with fashion all over again.

paris fashion week

After some mixed collections in London and Milan, Paris went back to the more wearable winter colours. Balenciaga – with Alexander Wang at the helm – combined darker and heavier fabrics like wool and leather with bright prints and colours such as purple, orange and blue, all very stylish but sensible. We’re still waiting to evaluate Raf Simons’ performance at Christian Dior but his A/W collection was beautiful. This new Dior is so much simpler than it was under John Galliano with none of the theatrics but this runway collection was clean and desirable – mostly black with splashes of colour: perfect for winter.

paris fashion week

The theme of dark colours with splashes of colour was continued throughout other designer showcases such as Stella McCartney. Her collection was a workingwoman’s dream – suits, dresses and knitwear perfect for the office, nights out and pieces that can be worn from day to day. Paris Fashion Week this season was built on the foundation durability and wearable items and most of the designers fit this brief. Saint Laurent had all the makings of a stylish teenage girl’s wardrobe – angsty and unpredictable. With a whopping amount of looks, Slimane’s models donned black eyeliner, frowns and Wednesday Addams-style pinafores and collars. I want pretty much everything in this collection – my wallet is crying at this stage.

parish fashion week

In a different move, Karl Lagerfeld created a supermarket at Chanel’s runway collection. Instead of the dark hues in a lot of other catwalk shows, Chanel showcased some bright, colourful patterns and colours. Everyone from Cara Delevingne to Joan Smalls partook in the grocery shopping wearing candy shades and futuristic looking dresses. Valentino went a little more geometric and graphic with their patterns, using lots of bright red, pinks and greens to make a desirable collection for every occasion. A personal favourite are the Peter Pan collared shift dresses – chic yet easy to wear. Sarah Burton added that little bit of drama into the Alexander McQueen show, using splashes of monochrome, navy and purple to make a theatrical but beautiful catwalk collection, paired with some pretty random cornrows.

parish fashion week

It’s been a mixed bag of a fashion week season. There has been a clashing combination of colours, cuts and fabric – it seems as though there is confusion between seasons. Nonetheless, our favourite designers came up trumps with some fantastic designs and surprisingly wearable outfits. It’s been a fantastic Fashion Week season for models like Kendall Jenner, who – on her debut Fashion Week season – made friends with Anna Wintour, modelled for brands from Chanel to Giles and got her name out there in the fashion world as fellow model Cara Delevingne did the few seasons before that.

paris fashion week

I’m already looking forward to seeing the S/S15 collections – it feels strange to be talking about winter clothes when it hasn’t even hit springtime yet. Until then, check out all the catwalks and the street style and see how you can update your wardrobe for next season! I’ve already started!

This article was first seen on lovetabii.com.

Photos c/o vogue.co.uk, astairwaytofashion.com

Until next time,

Keep styling,

Em

x

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The Designer Highlights of Spring/Summer 2013

It’s been such a long winter in Ireland that everyone is getting a bit sick of the cold weather, the frostbitten hands and the sneezing all over the shop! I’m always so looking forward to the winter, I love wrapping up in warm coats, scarves and hats but there comes a time when even a person like me who is allergic to sunlight has to take a step back and think, ‘My god, I just want to wear a light jacket for once’! So for all those people who are missing the presence of a bit of warmth and want to change up their wardrobe a little bit, here is what we should be wearing this Spring/Summer 2013 season all the way from the major catwalks.

We got a huge mixture of everything for the S/S 2013 shows, from graphics to floral print, pastels to neon and everything in between. It was a season of change, with Hedi Slimane at the helm of the newly named YSL and Raf Simons taking over from Bill Gaytten at Dior (does anyone else miss Galliano?). Even Jil Sander returned to the fashion house she had started in 1973 much to the surprise of many. Throughout all this upheaval, our favourite designers managed to create some show-stopping creations, astound us with their visual displays and reminded us all why we are in this game called fashion.

As always the fun began in New York City and we saw influential people like Anna Wintour and André Leon Tally enjoying the spoils of fashion’s most prominent designers, who didn’t disappoint. Carolina Herrera’s show, a favourite with the fashion elite championed ‘lightness and fluidity’, which reflected beautifully in the cuts and hues of the clothing. There was an Alice in Wonderland-style vibe throughout the runway show, using a powder blues and creams as a running theme. Collared blouses and A-line skirts were the order of the day modelled by up-and-coming stars like Cara Delevigne and the sleeve style on the jackets and cinched waists created a school-girl aura, a look not usually championed by Herrera. The subtle colours continued throughout the show on tea dresses and maxi-skirts. Karlie Kloss finished the show in a three-quarter-length sleeve cream dress with intricate beading on the edges, closing this young but elegant collection with a bang.

Marc Jacobs used a psychedelic style in his collection for this season with the use of horizontal stripes in many different colours from monochrome to candy-red. Every piece had simplicity, like it had been stripped back to basics and started again. Crop tops with shorts were a big part of the show and the midi-trend continued with the use of knee-length skirts. There was the odd ruffled collar and scalloped hem and the psychedelic mood changed from stripes to houndstooth to leopard print, a true sign that prints will be all in this season in all shapes and forms. All the accessories were petite and ‘cute’, something that ran parallel to the sixties theme, a tribute to the days of Twiggy and simplicity.

Tom Ford, the man of the moment thanks to his new Diet Coke campaign, continued the sixties vibe into his show with teased beehives and biker boots. His mixture of glossy biker jackets with upturned collars, buckles and leather this was truly a nod to the days of mod, an era that made James Dean comfortable and makes women to this day feel sexy and in control which is exactly how these clothes are meant to feel. The mixture of black, cobalt and metallic shades made for a contrast made in heaven and the utilitarian feel that moved throughout the show made Ford’s show an uproarious success and will have the Swinging Sixties swing all the way into 2013.

Next was London. Home of the most articulate and grungy designers on the planet and home to muses from Edie Sedgwick to Princess Diana. Here is where we see the use of florals and pastels, showing our European and American counterparts how it’s done in London. Emilia Wickstead told the press she had championed a Truman Capote society woman vibe, slick, polished and most importantly, desirable. Her outfits that would stand out on the set of programmes like The Hour create a marriage of youth and polish and bring it together to output a late 50s aura. The neat, simple hair and the chic Manolo Blahnik shoes made the elegant tailoring complete and the models shows an iron-willed but effortless demeanour in the clothing. There were plunging necklines in demure dresses and full skirts in sherbet shades, combinations that screamed Sunday best but also independent woman.

Mary Katrantzou, although sticking to some of her exquisite printing, had a different style this season. The prints she usually uses have such an intricate and old oriental quality about them and these new styles that Katrantzou uses was a nod to her flourishing style, a more modern approach to printing. The use of money, flowers and postage stamps was a surprising change on styles like shirts and bootleg trousers. Her colours that usually stick to a scheme were fresher, white mixed with metallic blues and blacks. The designers showcased A-line dresses, trousers and blazers mixed with bowling-style shirts. Her oriental-inspired vase shaped skirts haven’t made their usual appearance at Fashion Week for this season but it could be the breath of fresh air that Katrantzou needed for her new collection.

A print overload was had at the Erdem catwalk show. Again with the sherbet shades, we got an eyeful of lemon yellow, oranges and pinks, all adorning pretty, ladylike dresses – an Erdem speciality. Erdem really broke out of his comfort zone with the use of snakeskin and the continued use of textiles, texture and applique. The show was saturated with femininity from demure fitted dresses to umbrella shaped skirts, to pencil skirts. The use of lace and crochet with sheer fabrics and pastels was a signature Erdem move but the show moved forward and made changes that no fashion editor could have expected.

Milan was next on the agenda, the home to high and expensive fashion. The standards are high and the prices are even higher but the Italian fashion capital always comes up with the goods and this season was no different. The monochrome and Oriental trends were ever present in Miuccia Prada’s catwalk show. The silhouettes were boxy and angular from the silk jackets to wraps to Judo-style jackets. The jackets that opened the show were black with a single white flower that looked like it had been spray-painted on with stiff pleated skirts. The flower motif crept into each look that turned the catwalk from the fur coats to the clutch bags, always in either red or white. The shows were golden booties with ribbon details, giving a very delicate feel to the outfits. The mixture of monochrome with pastels was very heavy and has people in two minds about the collection but Prada’s show has triumphed with the critics again who think the use of monochrome in the S/S13 collection works against the sweet colours that after two weeks of fashion shows can start to get a bit sickly.

Jil Sander has returned to the helm of her own ship after Raf Simons moved to Dior and this collection was bound to cause a lot of interest. The modern clean lines has everyone talking and her use of colours like burgundy and navy were a welcome difference to the pastels and patterns of every other collection. The collection was about lines and shapes more than colours and the shirts and jackets had a stiffness and structure about them. The jumpers had graphic lines on the shoulders and sleeves and everything was cinched and tapered – because that’s what Jil Sander does. The contrast between the square cuts and the round necklines was a smart one and Sander returned with style to the fashion elite where she can rightfully take her place. This collection was astounding, not just because of the clothing but the difference between now and last season, under the wing of Raf Simons.

Frida Giannini, the designer who kicked off Milan Fashion Week, opened with a bright pink bombshell in the form of a streamlined trouser suit showing that Gucci was too in a sweet mood. However, the design house was packing a punch and instead of following the crowd, Gucci used expressive jewel colours in their collection. Turquoise, pink and yellow all played a huge part in the show and it said no to the summer pastel unspoken rule. There were double-breasted jackets and shift dresses with patterns and Giannini put a lot of focus on back detailing in this new collection, creating high necklines with plunging backs. We saw beading and encrusted necklines and snakeskin to boot, showing that Gucci likes to give the fashion groupies of the world a lot of options.

It was time to go and enjoy the romantic fashion in the city of love and our last port of call: Paris Fashion Week. Amazing designers have hailed from this city and the beauty that has been created in design houses like Chanel and YSL cannot be beaten. Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton took our breath away as per usual and she has proved yet again why she is the best. There was an erotic feel to the show and Burton described the collection as being about the ‘worker bees’. This led to honeycomb style mesh being used to make pencil skirts and sharp jackets with a beekeeper style hat. Crinoline was the buzzword in this show and we saw extravagant and indescribable corseted gowns that belonged in a Russian society novel. Thick gold belts were wrapped round the waists of the models and the corsets/crinoline style dictated how well the jackets tapered on the waist. Unbelievable isn’t strong enough a word: Burton, you did McQueen proud.

Chanel, a favourite amongst the fashion society, was as always lady-like and fantastic. Lagerfeld used pearls galore in this show-stopping catwalk, on wrists and necklines and clothing, like pollen that had just rested on their clothes. It was one of the simplest shows that Chanel has ever done and that, in itself, is a statement. Lagerfeld showed that the house of Chanel didn’t need fresh blood; it was still the king of the jungle in the fashion world. We saw little cropped jackets, a Chanel favourite but with bell sleeves for a modern twist. There were strapless column dresses with sequin flowers, sequined jackets and huge hats with see-through brims. The wind theme that ran throughout the show was a breath of fresh air both for the brand and the audience and the entire collection was calm, collected and a total classic from Karl Lagerfeld.

Last but certainly not least, the show that everyone has been talking about: Louis Vuitton. The use of neon and graphic print was genius and set this show apart from the rest. Escalators played a huge part in this ingenious designs and created drama. Marc Jacobs focused on stripes for his own show but when it came to Vuitton, Jacobs was seeing squares: plenty of them. The sixties style was evident yet again and the models donned beehives and kitten heels to strut their checkerboard creations down the runway. Pencil skirts and maxi-skirts both played a part with demure jackets and crop tops, a staple in Jacobs’ own show. The designs themselves were simple and elegant but the use of the checkerboard pattern and the sixties theme made this show one to remember.

The designers over Fashion Week gave us a few clear messages: graphic patterns like stripes and squares will be all over the high street this season and don’t be afraid to steer clear of the failsafe pastels and try something a bit bolder or darker. Flowers are all in as a usual spring staple but with a twist and make sure you channel that 50s/60s vibe to your hearts content! Keep styling, Em x

There’s Something About Blake

WHEN Gossip Girl hit our screens in 2007, it wasn’t just the outfits or the backdrop of the Upper East Side that captivated us; it was the beauty of the main characters especially Blair Waldorf played by Leighton Meester and the gorgeous Serena van der Woodsen, played by Blake Lively.

Four years later, Lively is one of the most famous actresses on the planet, has been rumoured to date A-list celebrities such as Ryan Reynolds and Leonardo di Caprio and is a muse and model for Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel.

The actress, born in 1987 in California, has acted in films like The Sisterhood of the Travelling Pants and the Green Lantern and has won three Teen Choice Awards. But the last couple of years, Lively’s main focus and achievements have been on her fashion career.

In January this year, Lagerfeld chose Blake Lively personally to become the official face of his ‘Mademoiselle’ handbag line because of her youthfulness and spontaneity and in March, her infamous Chanel campaign was launched. The beautiful work relationship between the two began at the start of this year but it was back in 2007, when the Gossip Girl franchise first kick off where she was introduced to Anna Wintour, editor of US Vogue, by Michael Kors and through Anna, she met Karl.

The fabulous star, who is renowned for not having a stylist, certainly has an eye for fashion and although she was offered other contracts, she always turned them down as she was ‘holding out for Chanel’. Since, she has become and style icon and regularly features on the ‘Best Dressed’ list, as well as featuring on the Time 100 Most Influential List in 2011and winning an Elle magazine Personal Style Award.

Every avid watcher of both Gossip Girl and the red carpet knows who Blake Lively is and craves her wardrobe on and off the set. At the end of September this year, she was named as the new brand ambassador for Stella McCartney and will now represent the brand inAmerica, having bonded with the fashion designer over their vegetarianism. She was recently photographed wearing her designs in a magazine shoot and will continue to represent Chanel, fulfilling her quota as the all-American beauty. She has starred in magazine covers the world over including Elle inFrance,SingaporeandJapan, US Vogue and Rolling Stone with her Gossip Girl co-star Leighton Meester. She even has a Louboutin shoe named after her. Not too bad for a 24-year-old girl from California, is it?

Day 1 of Belfast Fashion Week-Designers and Designer Boutiques…♥

It was a fabulous night that kicked off Belfast Fashion Week in a luxury suite in the Europa Hotel in Belfast city. The decor and atmosphere walking into the room were enough to excite anyone, even before the beautiful models took to the cream luxurious catwalk.  As this blogger sat down on the clear Perspex and surprisingly comfortable seat with her free West Coast Cooler Citra, the anticipation was welling up and it didn’t disappoint me. As the lights dropped on the swathes of cream voile hanging from the ceiling, Katie Larmour took to the stage to MC the event and introduced the first collection for the Designers and Designer Boutiques show.

‘Candy Plum’ in Hillsborough was first to the stage, showcasing a gorgeous collection of autumnal colours including Sonia Rykiel for us to feast our eyes on. There were scarves, coats and jeans in lovely colours, reminding us that even with an apparent cruel winter ahead, we can still dress beautifully for it! There was a very cute brown duffle coat that had a hint of Paddington Bear about it, ideal to bring you through the winter months. A personal favourite of mine was a fur gilet that every girl in the audience wanted, teamed with jeans and boots, a fabulous look for any fashionista going into the cold weather. The whole showcase was very casual and very wearable, there were no pieces that shocked or offended, it was very safe but still covetable. There was even a Erdem style silk dress that I could see quite a lot of the audience mentally noting. The models used were absolutely gorgeous and anyone who was watching Britain and Irelands Next Top Model this year would have recognised the fabulous Stacey from our own Northern Ireland modelling.

Then it was the turn of ‘Silk’ Emporium based in Newry. The styles from Silk were a lot edgier and embraced the fetish trend from this season. There was a lot of silk used (who’d have thought), and there were looks vaguely reminiscent of both Kate Middleton and Kate Moss, not something you often see in one collection! The pieces had a very retro twist about them, there was a strong use of fur and zip detail and one jacket looked like it came straight off the set of Pirates of the Carribean. There was a gorgeous sequined mini-dress that caught my attention and their tan coat and matching accessories were to die for.

‘Sarah Jane’ Boutique from Magherafelt was next, with a collection that appealed to just about everyone. There were dresses and outfits that appealed to the more middle-aged market right down to girls in their teens. There were a couple of dresses that sported a very ruched effect and would be beautiful for both proms and cocktail parties and again there was a lot of fur in the collection. The beautiful model Finola wore a fabulous two piece suit in burnt orange, a cropped jacket and dress that instantly brings Jackie Onassis to mind. There were more casual looks as well with fur gilets and brown jodhpurs, unfortunately only for the slimmest of people but still beautiful pieces to add to an already brimming shopping list. The colours Sarah Jane had in their showcase were very bright and eye-catching compared to the earthy tones of some of the other collections and the use of sharp shouldered dresses and starry tights really widened their demographic for the night.

‘Elegance’ in Lurgan was next, showing items of Ralph Lauren and Moschino clothing. There were fabulous waterfall jackets and Ralph Lauren tweed jackets with velvet leggings. It looks like Elegance has embraced the Navajo trend, showing Native American style prints on cardigans. There were paisley dresses that screamed Jonathan Saunders Autumn/Winter 2011 and gorgeous jewel tones in azure and maroon. They had very comfortable-looking clothes too including cardigans, jeans and a gorgeous houndstooth coat in black and grey with bow details. Again, like ‘Candy Plum’, everything was very safe but looked luxurious and easy to wear. The last piece was the antithesis of the rest of the collection, a black stretchy style dress that scream ‘naughty nurse’ with gold zip details. It wasn’t my favourite piece but it did cause a stir with the audience.

‘Rebecca Jane’ had a very young looking collection and I could see a lot of the younger audience members faces light up when they saw the looks, mentally making Christmas lists in the back of their minds. There were grey shorts, navy high-waisted jeans, leather jackets and dresses with ra-ra skirts attached. Rebecca Jane were feeling the equestrian trend as they showcased brown jodhpurs with a brown blazer with elbow patches that are very current and fresh looking, I think we can thank Ms Middleton again for that! Like a lot of the collections, they were showing hats and scarves so we can remember to wrap up warm for the winter in serious style. There were also a few dresses that tied at the waist for a very youthful vibe, again appealing to the younger half of the audience. The last piece was a stunning black sequinned backless mini-dress that looked like it would marry your curves if it could. Teamed with a statement necklace, it closed the Rebecca Jane collection perfectly!

‘Paparazzi’ had some beautiful clothing next, especially the Valentino pieces. The first piece was a favourite of mine, a red Valentino coat with bow detail and flicked out at the bottom. It was a real statement piece but if anyone is looking to invest, this coat is the way to go! This boutique used a lot of metallic sheens which are very in this season, and teamed them with puffa jackets, which seemed a recurring theme throughout the show. There was a crested leather jacket that made the model look like a slim Hell’s Angel, but in an utterly fabulous way. A use of ruffles, leather and crunch effect pieces in the collection was popular and a lot of dresses that could be used as prom dresses, so if you’ve a prom or a dance coming up, you know where to look!

Next were the collections of lingerie provided by Orchid Lingerie, The Bra Boutique and The Lingerie Room. There was a gorgeous selection of balconette bra and knicker sets in delicate colours teamed with light tasteful stockings and fur coats. The models sported slips, negligees and camisole sets to showcase the luxuriousness of the designs

Grainne Maher Millinery came next, with a selection of individual and exciting pieces from her hat collection. There were berets, which are always very chic for the winter season due to the impeding bad weather and Jude Cassidy scarves with giant bobbles on the ends of them.  There were hats that looked like buttons which were very like Marc Jacobs collection for A/W 2011 and headpieces that were sure to win you the best hat competition at the races. But the show-stopping piece was the ‘Medusa’ headpiece, a piece Lady GaGa would be proud to own, containing large green snakes, (obviously not real!) in a hair-shaped ball. Only photos can show the sheer beauty and erratic quality of this piece, so I’ve provided one!

Next came Una Rodden, a newer designer on the block. The collection contained a lot of blues, greys and browns, generally very earthy colours but there were splashes of orange and metallic as well. She showcased a beautiful black dress that was not unlike a costume from ‘Black Swan’ which was breathtaking, and although I’ll NEVER be able to afford if, it’ll be going down on the list anyway!  Her style was very contemporary, built on classic pieces and made into beautiful modern designs, almost like architecture, not fashion.

Jourdan was second to last with a collection of very young, vibrant colours and animal prints. Again, like a lot of the other collections, there was a strong use of metallic and fur and crepe effect. There were Egyptian style body-con dresses, turbans, daisy appliqué evening gowns and cocktail dresses to die for. The pieces were a lot more youthful than some of the others and were aimed at the younger demographic but at the same time, were still absolutely gorgeous, and were a fresh take on some of the popular outfits choices at the moment.

Last, but certainly not least, was Blush. The boutique showcased a gorgeous selection of wedding dresses, including Jenny Packham. Personal favourites were the 20’s style beaded dress and the exquisite ‘Flower Bomb’ dress with a strapless sweetheart neckline. The dress inspired awe within every woman in the audience and the whole collection was very dramatic in a classy, sexy way.

The night was utterly fabulous from start to finish and the goodie bag was great, especially my collector’s edition Karl Lagerfeld Diet Coke bottle!

This blogger wore  a houndstooth blazer, mans white shirt, wet look leggings and heel, loved my outfit! If you love it too, check it out on Lookbook and hype me 😀

Stay tuned for Day 2 of BFW 🙂 

Autumn/Winter 2011

autumn winter 2011

Spring has only just arrived and already it’s time to start planning your autumn/winter wardrobe. This Spring/Summer 2011 collection had radical changes to the season previous, sporting loud colours, classic shapes, and most controversial of all, flats on the catwalk. But however different it may be, as usual, it works every time. Women pay not only for the clothes themselves, but for the story behind the clothes, for the glamour, and most importantly, for the way it makes them feel.

Even through recessional times, women are still buying their own little bit of luxury and fashion is the perfect way to do that. Fashion can be your own little bit of heaven, and the odd occasion, can even make you forget your troubles (that’s only the really expensive stuff though!). The Autumn/Winter collection will be no different. Although the credit crunch is still here, the desire for fashion and it’s ever changing temperament will only heighten, and design houses like Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy, although keeping some key ideas the same, reconstructed their entire collections to suit this covetous attitude.

The unveiling of the Autumn/Winter collections kicked off with New York Fashion Week on February 8-15, followed by London Fashion Week on February 18-23 and finally Paris Fashion Week March 1-9. NY Fashion Week really kicked off the radical look with designers like Vera Wang, Diane Von Furstenberg and of course, the formidable Betsey Johnson. Wang kept it simple with plenty of fur, in a warrior-like collection that was both fun and practical. In contrast to all the Spring/Summer collections, Vera Wang used a lot of black and grey throughout her runway collection, almost prophesying the dullness of the winter ahead. Diane Von Furstenburg was another that kept her line fairly simple, but had some changes. The iconic wrap dress that she created in 1972 was still a key concept but was incorporated into more modern designs like shirts and jackets, using bold prints not only for her dresses but for very en trend items like palazzo pants, that can be carried from the Spring/Summer collection straight through to winter. Most radical of course was Johnson. Her collection was big, bold and larger than life, just like the designer herself and the use of animalistic prints, fur and neon made her a clear contender for the most memorable show of New York Fashion Week.

Onto London Fashion Week where the more bohemian, relaxed vibe took place and new designers really got a taste of the big time. Erdem, noted fashion designer who has really only exploded onto the scene for the last couple of years, completely changed his collection from the pretty, flowery line he had for the Spring/Summer collection to a new sexy aspect of his clothing that we’ve never really seen before. He made a romantic theme in his clothing by using neon colours on velvet and placing lace and chiffon over this to create an elegant angle on neon. New designer, Mary Katrantzan had a Hua Juan feel to her collection, using patterns from china ceramics and embroidery of Chi Pao. She also created a silhouette shape this season very different from her usual geometric, cube style. Her use of bold prints and flowers will make her very hard to forget and this reporter can see her becoming very big on the London design scene in the next couple of years. The old favourites, like House of Holland and Felder Felder failed to disappoint, using theatrics to create looks that were truly magnificent. Between the two design houses, fur, tweed, feathers, pearls, PVC and metallic made London Fashion Week a hard event to miss.

The Fashion Week season ended on a high note with Paris Fashion Week, which as the fashion capital of the world, is always a highlight. The old favourites such as Thierry Mugler, Louis Vuitton and Chanel were out in force and by Jove, did they deliver. Thierry Mugler’s show marked the debut of Sebastian Peigne (formally at Balenciaga) and new Creative Designer Nicola Formichtti’s first womenswear show. Although having a striking collecting full of statement colours, lines and shoulders, the true focus was taken away by the celebrity model, Formichetti’s new best friend, Lady Gaga. Likewise, with Louis Vuitton’s show, Marc Jacobs took the focus away from his saucy collection of high heeled wellington boots, handcuffs, sheer outfits and fur coats with Kate Moss sauntering down the runway, surprisingly not causing an international incident, but certainly turning more than a few heads. As always, Chanel was the star of the week. Using almost the antithesis of his Spring/Summer line, he went back to using dark power suits, crisp white shirts and muted colours, with a few exceptions. The feminine, frilly shirt has a huge part in next season’s wardrobe and the entire line has an incredibly Parisian feel to it. Karl Lagerfeld has really brought his collection home this season, having designed a beautiful but wearable collection.

The Autumn/Winter collections for 2011 have succumbed to some radical changes but are back to the fluid beautiful art forms that aren’t just fashion but emotions as well. Back when fashion started, they were seen as things of beauty, not just objects to cover our bodies. For decades, we seem to have forgotten that, but now, not only are we prepared for winter, but we’ll be beautiful too! Blair Waldorf said,” Fashion is the most powerful form of art there is. It’s movement, design and architecture all in one. It shows the world who we are, and who we’d like to be” and next season, this dream can come true.

 

Photo c/o tangentmag.com

The New Sexy

The New sexy

Sexy has turned over a new leaf in terms of fashion and got our heads in a spin. Gone are the days of bodycon dresses, extensions and smouldering for the camera. The Paris Hiltons, Brad Pitts and Cristiano Ronaldos of the world are no longer the fashion forward and instead, people like Carey Mulligan and Alexa Chung are the new sexy instead of being categorised as alternative and bohemian.

The new sexy isn’t about looking as polished and perfect as is physically possible. No no. The new sexy eludes intelligence, modesty and unpretentiousness. The new sexy is natural, confident and just a little unkempt. The new sexy, most importantly, is about keeping it buttoned up.

The designer who made this all possible is of course, the fashion veteran, Marc Jacobs. He has inspired numerous fashion houses from Derek Lam to Stella McCartney to even high street stores like River Island to embrace the midi length skirt, sheer blouses and structured flares.

Christopher Kane, who brought neon twinsets with knee length skirts to the runway this season, names his inspirations as Princess Margaret and Marilyn Monroe to name a few, “I’ve never seen Marilyn Monroe in a short dress, and people say she was one of the sexiest women in the world“. Good news for us, no?

Looking at the style icons of the moment, it becomes clear what the new sexy is all about. Emma Watson’s understated nude Valentino at the Bafta’s, Alexa Chung in that beautiful Peter Pan collared Chanel shift, even American Kate Bosworth in those beautiful Proenza Schouler shift dresses.

Erdem, the new sexy brigade’s design favourite, sums it up in a few simple words, “They’re not pretty pretty, there’s certain intelligence to them, they’re smart women. And there is definitely certain sexiness in keeping something back“.

Watch out for sheer blouses, fitted flares and knee/midi length skirts this season, they’ll be absolutely everywhere. Karl Lagerfeld opened his new Chanel couture show with flat pumps rather than dressing the models in heels, both creating a stir in the fashion world and starting a new trend that would travel from high-end Chanel to high-street stores like Topshop.

The new sexy is a strict rebellion against the old sexy, and the perfection of it all. Could our skirts have got any shorter, or our shoes any higher? I think not, so why not go back to the drawing board and create something more function and fluid?

Erdem says “Every woman wants to look like the most beautiful version of herself and this [new sexy] is about being in touch with what she wants.” In this case, we can really say that for the new season, less is most definitely more.

 

Photo c/o wallpaperswide.com